Semana de los curris de Chiang Mai

For one week the kitchen stops looking at Bangkok and heads north. Five Chiang Mai curries, one a day, exactly as we learned them at the stalls of Warorot market.

Monday opens with khao soi: a yellow curry broth with coconut milk, soft egg noodles underneath and crisp ones on top, pickled onion and lime on the side. Tuesday, gaeng hang lay, a pork curry with tamarind and ginger that simmers four hours and has not a drop of coconut in it. Wednesday, nam prik ong, more relish than curry, with tomato and pork, to eat with raw vegetables and crackling. Thursday, gaeng om, herbal and light, with dill and lemongrass. And Friday closes with gaeng khae, the hottest of the five, with cha-om leaves.

Each comes with jasmine rice and mango sticky rice. Served at lunch and dinner while the day lasts; when the pot is finished, it's finished.

Book on the website or come and wait at the bar.